Have you ever heard of Castelbuono? This small medieval village is nestled in Sicily’s Madonie Mountains and has a beautiful historic center that captivates you from the very first glance with its rich history, charming cobbled streets and warm atmosphere.
But what makes Castelbuono really extraordinary? Well, this village was the first in Italy to use donkeys for door-to-door garbage collection!
During our road trip in May through Sicily’s Madonie Mountains, we spent our days enjoying the beautiful landscape and exploring romantic medieval villages. As we drove through a green valley, Castelbuono – a village of about 9,000 inhabitants – suddenly appeared along a mountain ridge with its stone houses pressed closely together.
The place is most famous for its stunning Ventimiglia Castle, built in 1316 by Count Francesco I Ventimiglia in 1316 on a pre-existing 12th-century watchtower. Designed in an Arab-Norman style, the castle is absolutely unique. Strange enough, it never served any strategic purpose!
To us, Castelbuono felt like a living medieval museum with historic charm and well-preserved architecture. The enchanting cobbled streets were lined with ancient buildings. Public fountains and quiet piazzas offered perfect spots to slow down, sip espresso and enjoy local manna-sweets – a traditional delicacy unique to the region.
We admired the architecture of the 14th-century Madrice Vecchia (old Mother Church) and the ornate Chapel of the Holy Crucifix.
Not far away was the 17th-century Madrice Nuova and along the main street we found the Fountain of Venus Ciprea. And when we reached the clock tower, we heard the ticking of time through the ancient clock that has been counting the hours, minutes and seconds since 1885.
As charming as the architecture was, nothing prepared us for Castelbuono’s most iconic daily event: door-to-door garbage collection done by donkeys!
This is a great solution, as the narrow, winding alleys in the historic center are far too tight for standard garbage or recycle trucks. And thus, in 2007, Castelbuono’s mayor introduced an innovative, eco-friendly solution: hiring a team of indigenous Ragusian donkeys (Asino Ragusano).
How does the system work? Well, the sanitation team exclusively uses six female donkeys, as they are gentler and far more reliable for street work than their stubborn male counterparts. Each donkey carries hand-woven willow double baskets with bold-colored side panels, fitted onto custom saddles. Their handlers walk alongside them to sort waste directly from the residents’ doorsteps. The locals know each donkey by name and often come outside to offer them fruit or a gentle pat as they pass.
Why donkeys? Well, first of all they replace air-polluting and noisy trucks in the historical zone. But they can also be useful when they are not collecting waste; their milk is considered to be the closest to human milk and hence very much valued. Moreover, the system offers employment and rehabilitation opportunities for socially excluded people with mental or addiction problems, through onotherapy (donkey-assisted therapy). And finally, it turns waste collection into a tourist attraction and an education tool for sustainable living. A win-win situation!
Altogether, Castelbuono is a real jewel of Sicily – not only for its breathtaking medieval heritage, but first of all for its commitment to zero waste, community care, and its wonderful team of Ragusian donkeys!