AN ADVENTUROUS ROAD TRIP THROUGH PIPERI

In the immediate surroundings of Podgorica is a mountain region called Piperi, which is mainly unknown to expats and tourists. Why unknown? I could mention several reasons: the roads are narrow and bumpy, without guardrails and absolutely not recommendable for people who suffer from fear of heights. Moreover, it is difficult to find your way, as there are many similar roads in this region and the signposts are in Cyrillic script only. And I should not forget to say that you will not find any pubs and restaurants along the road, while the rare farm houses are mostly uninhabited.

But if you are an adventure lover, interested in spectacular panoramas and awesome landscapes, I would like to recommend you an adventurous round trip through Piperi, with a detour to another hidden gem: Studeno, a climatic spa in the mountains above Danilovgrad. By the way, you can also visit a few cultural monuments during your trip: the excavations of Doclea, the monastery of Piperska ćelija and the monastery of St. Paraskeva in Gostilje. 

Piperi

The Piperi clan is one of the seven traditional highland tribes of Montenegro. The members of this clan are famous in Montenegro’s history for their courage during the wars with the Ottoman Empire. Their region is situated in the rough mountains between the Morača and Zeta rivers.

After World War II, many inhabitants of Piperi have abandoned their houses and moved to town. Some of the reasons ares certainly the lack of infrastructure and water. However, quite a few people are now renovating their old houses with a view to dedicating their spare time to agriculture and cattle breeding.

The Route

Start your trip in Podgorica and take the old road to Danilovgrad. As soon as you leave the city, turn right (signpost Rogami) and pass the bridge over the Zeta river. Turn right immediately after the bridge and continue until you cross the railroad. On the left side of the road (3 km from Podgorica), you will see the excavations of Doclea or Duklja (DOCLEA (DUKLJA), MONTENEGRO’S FOREMOST ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE).

Continue your trip uphill, passing through the villages of Rogami and Đurkovići until you arrive at a Cyrillic signpost at Donja Radeća. Turn right uphill at this signpost and turn left at the next junction, where you see  the signpost of Gornja Radeća. You will now continue over a narrow road under the cliffs of Piperska Stijena (’Stijena’ or ’Cтиjена’ in Cyrillic script). At the end of the cliffs, you will arrive at a junction, where the road continues uphill.

But if you want to visit the monastery Piperska ćelija (5 HIDDEN MONASTERIES IN MONTENEGRO), turn left downhill and after 800 m you will see the signpost of the monastery (2.5 km) at a sharp turn right.

If not, drive up to the Kopilje plateau, which is around 20 km from Podgorica. Then keep left and continue to the village of Gostilje. At the junction after the war monument, turn right to the village and the monastery of St. Paraskeva. You can even continue for another 5 km, but then the road stops and turns into a forest trail. Drive back to the junction, turn right and continue downhill to the old road Danilovgrad-Spuž.

The Tour

Your first stop should be at Doclea or Duklja, once the largest settlement of the Docleata, an Illyrian tribe. I assume that the gate is open – you can freely enter, entrance fee is not charged. It is a pity that there is no guide or at least a leaflet to learn more about the history of this interesting excavation site. It is true, there are some information boards, but they only show the places where the ancient buildings were located.

History of Doclea

The city was built in the 1^st century AD on a plateau near the confluence of the Zeta and Morača rivers. It was a large town with 8-10 thousand inhabitants and also the surrounding area was relatively densely populated. Around 300 AD it became the capital of the newly established Roman province, Prevalis, with a population of some 40,000. After the 4^th century it lost power and in the beginning of the 5^th century it was attacked by the Visigoths. In 518, it was totally destroyed by an earthquake. And finally, in the 7^th century AD, after the invasion of the Avar – Slavic tribes, Doclea lost its urban characteristics.

Continue your trip uphill through the village of Rogami. The karst landscape is barren, but when you travel in springtime you will see an abundance of flowers along the road. Driving up to Piperska Stijena (in translation ‘Rock of Piperi’), you will enjoy amazing views of Podgorica, the Bjelopavlići Valley and even Skadar Lake in the distance, while the threatening gray karst rocks are hanging above you.

Before climbing up to the plateau of Kopilje, you will have the opportunity to visit one of the most picturesque monasteries of Central Montenegro: Piperska ćelija (in translation: ‘Cell of Piperi’). At the junction where the road continues uphill, turn left downhill for 800 meters and then sharp right at the signpost for the monastery. After 2.5 km you will arrive at:

Monastery Piperska ćelija

The convent was founded by St. Stephen of Piperi (Sveti Stefan Piperski) in 1660 on a rock near the village of Crnci, and it allows a wonderful view of the Bjelopavlići valley. St. Stephen settled in Piperi in a cell where he remained in labor and asceticism until his death in 1697. The relics of St. Stephen are preserved in the monastery, which was renovated in 1994.   

Surrounded by a big wall, the complex reminds you of a medieval fortress. During your visit, one of the nuns will certainly tell you more about the miracles that have happened here.

If you want to experience genuine silence and untouched nature – take a break on the plateau of Kopilje. at an altitude of 620 m above sea level. In spring, it is covered with wild orchids and other flowers, and at some places people cultivate lavender and other medicinal herbs. Now keep left at the junction: there is a Cyrillic signpost to the village of Gostilje (Гостиљe), which is located at an altitude of 860 m above sea level. This region is magnificent for a walk or picnic and the narrow road to Gostilje offers impressive vistas of the Kopilje plateau, the steep rocks of Piperska Stijena and the Bjelopavlići plain.

At the junction with an interesting war monument and some old houses, you should turn right in the direction of Gostilje, a village with just a few houses. It is interesting to visit the isolated monastery of St. Paraskeva, which was built on top of an old family house.

From Gostilje, you can continue for another 5 km through a nice landscape with scattered weekend houses, and then the road stops at the foot of a mountain covered with pine forests. Maybe a good idea for a hiking tour before you go back?

Driving back, turn right at the first junction and take the new asphalt road downhill. There are no signposts yet, but this road runs directly to the old road Spuž-Danilovgrad. You will thus have the opportunity to make a nice round trip. Just turn left and you will soon reach Spuž and Podgorica.

You can make this round trip in spring and enjoy the abundance of flowers, or in autumn when the colors of the trees are vibrant, but also in winter when the views of the valley are really amazing!

Detour to Studeno:

Back on the old road Danilovgrad-Spuž turn right and after the signpost “Rasadnik Lakića” pass the small bridge and turn right (Ostrog monastery). Follow the route described above. After 15 km on this narrow winding road, you arrive at the last junction, which can be recognized by a huge beech tree. Now you can make a decision: turning left you will find a forest area and a beautiful green pasture among huge beech trees – ideal for a picnic, and turning right you will reach the weekend settlement and mountain hut of Studeno after 3.5 km.

The mountain massif and recreative area Studeno, located at an altitude of around 1,200 m above sea level, represents a real climatic spa with more than 400 weekend houses. The area is famous for the beneficial effect of its pine forests. Several forest roads and hiking trails lead further to the mountain peaks of Kula and Lisac. Studeno is situated at a distance of 45 km from Podgorica.

At both sides you will find mountain pastures, beech and pine forests, and there are several wells where you can have a rest and take a walk through the forests. Just imagine: there are almost 500 species of medicinal and aromatic plants in this area.

The best time to visit Studeno is in spring or autumn. I explored the region a few years ago and I can assure you: this is a nice place where you can rest and relax!

Attention: The local road from Danilovgrad to Studeno is currently (March 2024) under reconstruction and closed for traffic each day from 7.00 to 17.00, except for the intervals from 9:00 to 9:30 and from 14:30 to 15:00. I suppose that the reconstruction works will be concluded before the summer.