Did you know that it is much easier to travel from Podgorica to the Bay of Kotor when you take the road via Nikšić and then down to Morinj? It is an excellent highway that passes through untouched nature, winding over the Grahovac plateau at an altitude of around 1000 meters, then across Grahovsko Polje (Grahovo Field) and further towards the sea, offering breathtaking views of the Bay and the islands of Perast. Considering the traffic jams and roadworks on the coast, this is a perfect solution, because it only takes you about twenty minutes from Grahovo to reach the Bay of Kotor. There is not much traffic, even in the summer.
But there is a lot to see in Grahovo itself! First of all, don’t miss a visit to the village of Grahovac, which is located on a plateau above Grahovo. There you will find silence and clean mountain air; this place is truly a paradise for lovers of untouched nature. Here you will also find the church of St. Spas, built in 1864 by order of King Nikola, in honor of the victory in the Battle of Grahovac. The church was built at the place where Husein Pasha, the commander of the Turkish army, had pitched his tent. Standing on the elevation behind the church you have a wonderful view of Lake Grahovo, surrounded by forests and mountains.
In honor of the famous Battle of Grahovac, the Montenegrin government unveiled a beautiful white obelisk in 2008, which is located next to the highway. The battle took place in 1858, when Prince Mirko Petrović-Njegoš led an army of 7,500 Montenegrin soldiers against the Ottomans. One thousand Montenegrins and 3,000 Ottoman soldiers died, but the Montenegrins won this decisive battle. On the obelisk you can read the inscription: ‘A monument to your courage is Montenegro and its freedom’.
It is expected that this highway to the coast will bring a better life to Grahovo, once a municipality well-known for its historical events and personalities. Can you imagine that Grahovo had 4.700 inhabitants in 1945, while Nikšić had only 200 more? Nowadays, there are only a couple of hundred.
What did Grahovo look like in the past? Once upon a time, this small town was a prosperous municipality. It was one of the first places in Montenegro to get a hospital and street lighting. But the Austrians, Germans and Italians did not spare the city; they set it on fire and killed the innocent inhabitants. However, after World War II, Grahovo had more than 20 craft shops, bars, restaurants and schools. There was also a juice factory, a sawmill, a button factory, a post office, and even a hotel. It was a town full of life and joy.
But many things have changed. Numerous houses were destroyed by the 1979 earthquake and were never rebuilt. The old ruined hotel is now being turned into a private medical center, but the works have apparently stopped. Some bars are open, but there are just a few guests. The memorial complex, once the pride of Grahovo, is neglected and abandoned. Apart from this memorial park, only the Arboretum and the church of St. Nicholas, built in 1499, are worth visiting.
It will probably take a long time until the former residents return to their family estates, despite the fact that some houses are already being renovated, and the Grahovo field is being cultivated.
So far, an excellent move has been made with the construction of the hotel and traditional restaurant Grahovac 1852, which has become very popular within a short time. The restaurant offers all kinds of traditional dishes – from ‘priganice’ and ‘kačamak’ to lamb under the hood. The right place to take a break and enjoy the wonderful mountain air!
Grahovo’s arboretum speaks for itself. It is located next to the old Austro-Hungarian road that led from Grahovac to Risan, about 500 meters from the center of Grahovac. This unique botanical garden was founded by General Vojo Kovačević fifty years ago. Currently, there are about 250 seedlings with 130 different plant species, collected from almost all continents. The most interesting species is the giant sequoia.
The arboretum has been under state protection since 2000, as evidenced by the faded sign at the entrance. But is it really so? When we visited this botanical garden a few months ago, we couldn’t believe that it was so neglected. Real wilderness! Trees dried up, information boards faded and cracked, the house of the late general – who died in 1997 – dilapidated and abandoned… We heard that the grandson of General Kovačević moved to Grahovo a few years ago and that he will continue to take care of the arboretum, which covers an area of about one hectare. But where is the municipality? Where is the state? This arboretum used to have 20,000 visitors a year… and now?
After walking through the streets of Grahovo and visiting a small flea market, we had a cup of coffee on a terrace in the center. Imagine, you can still buy coffee here for €1.00!
Don’t miss a visit to the Memorial Park on Umac Hill, which was built between 1977 and 1978. A huge and very impressive sculpture on top of the hill (7 meters high) represents a moving column of soldiers led by national hero Sava Kovačević. It was made of bronze by the famous sculptor Miodrag Živković. Savo Kovačević was born in the nearby village of Nudo. Under his command, on July 13, 1941, the Grahovo partisans attacked the occupying forces and disarmed a group of enemy soldiers.
Part of the complex is also a group of 272 concrete cubes with the names of soldiers from this area fallen during World War II, connected by stairs and plateaus. The lack of maintenance of the memorial park is obvious. Weeds grow everywhere. What a shame! Such an impressive monument from the Second World War could certainly be a very interesting tourist attraction!
If you have enough time, visit Lake Grahovo. This is an artificial lake, created in 1952, which serves to accumulate water for the needs of farmers in the Grahovo Field. You can approach the lake by car: the road passes through the center of Grahovo, but is in a rather bad condition. There is an old footpath to the lake starting from the village of Grahovac, which should be repaired soon.
Grahovo is witness to a turbulent past, which makes it an interesting place for visitors. Located at a distance of thirty kilometers from the sea and at an altitude of 700 meters above sea level, it offers perfect conditions for life, tourism development and economic growth. Grahovo should have a great future when serious investments start!
Thank you again. I enjoy your travelreports very. As a german it is so easy for me to read your storys, as if someone speaks to me.
In 2023 i took the road from Podgorica to Kotor through the mountains. But I never visited this town.
I hat to come back.
Joe