This month we finally managed to explore the famous gravel road ‘Majstorska cesta’, also known as the Master’s Road, which has been on our bucket list for a long time. Knowing that the best times to discover Majstorska cesta are late spring and early autumn, we took advantage of our stay in Croatia and made this amazing tour, starting from Sveti Rok. It’s true, we ignored the traffic sign informing us that Majstorska cesta is closed from October 15th to April 15th. Well, it was April 13th, the barrier was open, there was nobody around and no rain was expected…
The road (official road number D547) appeared to be rather wide and, in the first portion, asphalted, but our true adventure started once we left the paved road. However, the macadam part of the road was in good shape and could easily be traveled with our faithful Dacia Duster, although this route is especially popular among motorcyclists, mountain bikers and hikers.
What do we know about Majstorska cesta?
It is a historic and scenic gravel road, around 41 km long, traversing Mount Velebit in Croatia.
Due to its historical and natural significance, it was placed on the Croatian cultural heritage list in 2007.
Majstorska cesta stretches from Sveti Rok to Obrovac and passes by the mountain top of Tulove grede (in translation ‘Tulo’s Rocks). It reaches its highest point at Mali Alan pass, about 1045 meters above sea level, where the Mediterranean and continental climates meet, creating highly variable weather conditions.
Nearby this pass is Tulove Grede (1120 meters above sea level), an exposed rocky ridge composed of steep limestone cliffs, about one kilometer long and overlooking the sea. Many legends and folk stories are related to those cliffs. They claim that dragons were born here and fairies found refuge in the caves and crevices. The third mythological being that many believed to have lived there is the ‘Black Queen’ who brought misfortune to anyone who met her.
During the 1960s, legendary movies based on the novels of Karl May about the adventures of the Apache chief Winnetou were shot at this location. The dramatic death of Winnetou was filmed on the slopes of Tulove Grede, and after the death of the actor Pierre Brice who portrayed the main character, his wife scattered his ashes on this mystic mountain. A memorial plaque with an inscription dedicated to Winnetou and Pierre Brice can be found along the road.
What do we know about the history of Majstorska cesta? The road was constructed between 1825 and 1832 and it was the first modern road linking the inland region of Lika with the Dalmatian coast. It was an engineering miracle for the time. With several hairpin bends carved into steep slopes and a maximum of 5.5%, it got its name from the German word for a masterpiece – ‘Meisterstück’. The fact that it is still in use and in good shape means that the name is not an understatement.
It is interesting to know that the road was designed and built under the leadership of Josip Kajetan Knežić from Petrinja, who was a frontier officer in the Austrian army and a self-taught engineer. Knežić was a fascinating character and left a lasting mark on Croatian architecture and engineering, although he was best known for his exceptional work in constructing mountain roads in karst areas.
As to more recent history, Majstorska cesta also played an important role as a communication and transport route during the Homeland War in the 1990s. During those years, Velebit was one of the harshest and worst battlefields. A notable memorial in the form of a small chapel honors commander Damir Tomljanović Gavran, who was killed on the slopes of Velebit in 1994.
Near the church of St. Francis along the road, there are other memorials to Croatian war heroes. And opposite of the church are two older monuments. One of them is dedicated to Francesco Farcasso, who died in 1851 fighting 22 bandits, and a more recent one from 1862 for Ivan Zagorac, who froze to death here.
Descending from Mali Alan pass, we understood that Velebit is a mountain with two faces. The first portion from Sveti Rok shows some greenery among the karst, but the sea facing side consists of barren rocks only, with little or no vegetation.
The drive downhill to Obrovac offered breathtaking views of the coastline and landscapes with giant rock formations, but it was rather demanding, with steep narrow sections and numerous hairpin bends and drop-offs.
Altogether, Majstorska cesta is best suited for experienced drivers and those seeking an adventurous journey. For us, it was an unforgettable experience!