DISCOVER THE AMAZING BEAUTY OF ZAVRATNICA COVE IN CROATIA

Zavratnica cove

Last week we spent a few days in and around Nature Park Velebit. Early spring is the right time of the year to visit this region: you can easily avoid the crowds and explore the enchanting natural beauties.

In my opinion, one of the most beautiful spots in Croatia is Zavratnica Cove. This is a stunning natural inlet located on the Adriatic coast, near the village of Jablanac at the foot of the Velebit Mountains. It stretches about 900 meters in length and is characterized by steep canyon-like cliffs reaching up to 100 meters high. The cove looks like a fjord, but its geological origin differs from true fjords, as it was formed by a submerged torrent valley that flooded after the rise of the sea level in the last Ice Age. The area is rich in flora and fauna, with 129 plant species and a diverse marine life.

Proclaimed as a protected landscape in 1964, Zavratnica is one of the major tourist attractions along the northern Adriatic coast. It offers crystal-clear turquoise waters, rugged cliffs, and vibrant greenery, making it ideal for hiking, photography or simply soaking in spectacular scenery.

Of course, swimming, diving and sunbathing are quite popular in the summer season, but in that period, the bay can be crowded due to frequent boat tours and foot visitors. To ensure a tranquil experience, I recommend visiting the bay in the early morning or around 6pm. And if you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, consider visiting during the off-season and enjoy the bay all to yourself!

Zavratnica Cove was revitalized in late 2024: the visitor infrastructure was enhanced, including upgraded walking trails, new information panels and refurbished viewpoints. The accessibility and safety were improved, but, fortunately, the natural and cultural heritage of the cove were preserved. This project was supported by the Environmental Protection and Energy Efficiency Fund and Velebit Nature Park, and it was the first major investment in Zavratnica since the early 20th century.

We spent the night at ‘Delux’, a nostalgic but comfortable hotel in Jablanac, a small village with a population of around 80 inhabitants. Historically, Jablanac had a ferry port connecting it to the island of Rab, but this ferry service was moved to Stinica in 2012.

Our room had a spacious terrace overlooking the sea, the harbor and the old village. The atmosphere was peaceful and charming, and it was clear that the locals loved gathering at the open-air terrace of the hotel’s restaurant. This appeared to be one of those places where we could still experience the authentic Croatian coastal village life, away from large tourist centers. Moreover, the sunset was really fabulous!

Next morning we made the scenic walk (20-30 minutes) from the village along the coast to Zavratnica, passing through a tunnel before entering the bay. An entrance fee of € 5.00 is charged to help maintain the protected area.

There is a small bar and a few benches at the end of the cove, where you can sit down for a rest and enjoy a cold drink. And if you want to enjoy an amazing aerial view of the bay, you can take the path leading up to the panorama point above the cove, which will take you around 30 minutes more (1 km) uphill.

Zavratnica old stairway

What else is there to see in the bay?

First of all, it is interesting to see the cascades and terraces on screes, which were built and later reforested by the inhabitants of Zavratnica. You can still see the remnants of old pathways and stairways, as well as other stone structures that tell the story of its past.

But the beauty of the bay is only part of what makes it so special. What’s more, there is a hidden gem – an abandoned German Wehrmacht shipwreck from World War II, which sunk in the bay while hiding from British bombings. Thanks to its steep and high slopes, Zavratnica was an excellent shelter for German warships. Given the greater concentration of German ships in Jablanac and Zavratnica during 1944, attacks were frequent. On 25 August 1944 five British aircrafts attacked two boats. After the second attack, one of the boats sank due to the damage it got right next to the coast of the bay, where it lies today.

But what happened to the British Hurricanes that attacked the German ships?  The planes would dive through the canyon descending all the way to the sea; three of them were shot down. In a 4-day operation in October 1989, the remains of the left wing of the British plane marked KZ243 were retrieved from a depth of 20 meters.

Information panels along the coast of Zavratnica tell you more about history and show you the secrets and stories of what happened here during World War II.

For those who only want to capture a breathtaking aerial shot, don’t stop in Jablanac – keep driving along the coastal road towards Split. Approximately 3.8 km from the local gas station, look for a sign marked ‘Zavratnica’ and turn right onto a winding, rocky path. Follow the signs for about 1.5 km until you reach the designated viewpoint area. This route is well-signposted and leads directly to the panoramic lookout above the cove, offering sweeping views of the bay, the Velebit mountains and the nearby island of Rab. This approach is particularly convenient for those who want to capture aerial photos or prefer not to hike from the coast. The road is narrow and rocky in places, so drive carefully and wear sturdy shoes if you plan to explore on foot from the parking area.

Whether you’re enjoying a quiet moment by the water, embarking on a hike through the lush surroundings or capturing an amazing aerial shot, Zavratnica Cove promises to leave you with lasting memories of the stunning coastline, making it a must-visit for anyone traveling to Croatia.

One Reply to “DISCOVER THE AMAZING BEAUTY OF ZAVRATNICA COVE IN CROATIA”

  1. […] is a historic and scenic gravel road, around 41 km long, traversing Mount Velebit in Croatia. […]

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