WALKING THROUGH THE PARKS OF PODGORICA I

As I often go for a walk through the parks of Podgorica, I would like to share my experience with those expats or tourists who are interested in exploring the city in more detail.

No wonder that there is a growing number of foreigners who choose Podgorica as their home. Although some people believe that Podgorica is an ugly and boring city, I think that its favourable position in the center of the country and its numerous facilities make life in this city very pleasant.

Maybe you will be surprised when I tell you that 12% of Podgorica’s surface is covered by parks and greenery. Apart from Forest Park Gorica, which is most popular among the citizens of Podgorica, there are also other, smaller parks that are worth visiting. In this blog post I will describe a walk through the parks of the „Preko Morače“ district.

Every citizen of Podgorica knows where this district is located. „Preko Morače“ (which means: „over the Morača“ or „on the other side of the Morača river“) is the neighborhood where I have spent many years of my life. It is hard to say if this is a beautiful district – it is a mix of old, often neglected and run-down apartment buildings and brand new architecture, alternating with wide avenues and well-maintained green surfaces.

Most buildings in the Preko Morače district were built in the 1970s and 1980s. With their simple forms, made of concrete, they are typical for the period of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Most of them consist of 5-6 floors, but there are also a few sky-scrapers with 12-14 floors. During the last 20 years, many new residential buildings have been constructed in this area, creating a modern look.

The roads and boulevards in this district are wide and the spatious sidewalks/bicycle paths are shadowed by big trees. As soon as the sun appears, even in the winter months, many citizens enjoy their cup of coffee on terraces in the open air along the main boulevard. But there are also a lot of benches around, which are often used by the elderly or by mothers with children.

The Sveti Petar Cetinjski Boulevard is a beloved promenade of the inhabitants of Podgorica. In 2021, the site „Architecture and Design“ mentioned it as one of the 50 most beautiful city boulevards in the world.

I love living in this busy district. Not because I enjoy a beautiful vista from my apartment, as my view is limited to the building on the opposite side of the street and the chaotic traffic deep down, but because of its lively and cheerful atmosphere. Not to mention the possibility of finding a quiet resting place surrounded by greenery, whenever I want.  

In this blog post I want to describe a walk through the parks located „Preko Morače“. The map below shows the complete walking tour, which consists of two loops: the red one is 3 km long and leads through Balašević Park, Tološi Forest Park and University Park, and the blue one is 2 km long and leads through France Prešern Park, Children’s Park and Park Kruševac.

Walk no. 1A (red line on the map) – 3 km

The walk starts at the roundabout in front of the monument of Sveti Petar Cetinjski. This monument is almost 7 meters tall and  is dedicated to the metropolitan and ruler of Montenegro Peter I Petrović Njegoš or Sveti Petar Cetinjski – the saint who is considered to be the founder of modern Montenegro. It was erected in 2006 in the University Park, a popular resting place for students.

On the opposite side of the roundabout is the Capital Plaza Building Complex, one of the most impressive buildings of Podgorica. Its modern and attractive design is quite typical for the new part of Podgorica and houses shops, apartments, office spaces and pubs/restaurants.

Start your walk by turning left from the monument into the Ulica Džordža Vašingtona (did you get used to the phonetic way of writing in Montenegro? Of course, this is the George Washington Street!). Admire the luxurious boutiques with international brands and the well-maintained green surfaces..

When you arrive at the crossroads, cross the boulevard and turn left. You will soon enter Balašević Park, a small park next to the Blok 5 district, which was opened in 2021 as an everlasting memory of the popular Yugoslav cantauthor Djordje Balašević, who passed away last year. The park is equipped with benches and rocking chairs and there is also a small library, where you can leave and take books for free. As Balašević died when he was 68 years old, 68 seedlings were planted, which were mentioned in his songs: acacias, mulberries, roses, quinces, linden trees, cypresses… The park is decorated with inscriptions on iron boards, citing texts of the most famous poems and songs of Balašević.

On the right side, next to the park, is Blok Pet (Blok 5), one of the most fascinating districts of Podgorica. Its construction started in the late 1970s – early 1980s. This neighbourhood is a typical example of the town-planning policy in that period and consists of eight residential buildings and five residential sky-scrapers up to 16 floors high. It contains wide streets and avenues, pedestrian zones, a school and kindergarten, playgrounds, etc. Unfortunately, the district was neglected, the buildings are run down and full of graffiti, the greenery was destroyed…. But you can still imagine that this was once a perfect urban living place. 

From Balašević Park, continue your walk through Tološi Forest Park, a beautiful green area with lots of pine trees. At the first crossroads, you can cross Bulevar Mihaila Lalića and enter the Tološi Sport and Recreation Zone, which is surrounded by fences. This forest park has a surface of 30,000 square meters and disposes of two basketball fields, running and walking paths, a bicycle path, a street work-out station and a playground for children.

Leave the park at the opposite side and enter the Baku Street, which leads you to the modern Sport and Cultural center of the University. Pass the center on the right side, you will see two student’s homes and another park that is still in the construction phase. Pass the university building on the right side and enter the University Park., a popular park for students, with a fountain and lots of benches.  A new park in front of the Rectorate building can be seen on your right side.

And then you arrive at the end of the loop in front of the monument of Sveti Petar Cetinjski. Are you tired? You can make a break at Astorija’s, where the coffee is excellent and the terrace is cozy!

Walk no. 1B (blue line on the map) – 2 km.

The second part of this walking tour „Preko Morače“ leads you through the subdistrict Kruševac.

Start from the same roundabout as walk 1A. Cross to the opposite side and continue your walk along the Bulevar Revolucije, passing the brutalist concrete building that houses the Radio and TV station of Montenegro. Do you think it is ugly? Well, it was built in times when this style was quite modern. Anyhow, it is nice walking along the Bulevar Revolucije, a green avenue bordered by old, shady pine trees and lots of green surfaces.

Turn right at the next crossroads (Moskovska Street) and soon you will see a small park called Prešernov Park, with an interesting monument of the Slovenian poet France Prešern. This park was a gift from Mr. Kovač, honorary consul of Montenegro in Slovenia, to Podgorica and its citizens. It symbolizes the cooperation and friendship between Montenegro and Slovenia.

Cross the road and enter the Children’s Park (see Picture 1), a quiet and green oasis with nice benches and playgrounds.

Leaving the park on the opposite side, you will see an impressive monument of a female figure in bronze. It is Queen Elena di Savoia (Jelena Savojska), daughter of the last (and first) Montenegrin King Nikola I Petrović. Jelena was born in Cetinje, studied in St. Petersburg and in 1896 she married the Italian king Vittorio Emmanuele III and became Queen of Italy. The royal couple was known for their strong and loving marriage, but the fact that Vittorio was only 1.53 cm tall and Jelena was 20 cm taller, is still the subject of many jokes!

The 2.5 m high monument was made by Adin Rastoder and it shows Jelena in the times, when she was a young princess.

Here is the main entrance to the Palace Complex Kruševac – the former winter residence of King Nikola I Petrović. The palace was built in 1891 and is located in the middle of Park Kruševac (Petrović Park), close to the Morača river. The building itself is now used as an art gallery –  Center of Contemporary Art. Artistic performances and exhibitions are organized in the park during the summer months and it is a favourite place for rest and recreation of the citizens of Podgorica. The park also contains a royal chapel, the Church of the Holy Martyr Dimitrije.

Go down the monumental stairs at the other side of the palace and leave the park. Turn left, continue through the pedestrian Children’s Street (Dječja ulica) until you arrive once more in Bulevar Revolucije. Cross the road, turn left and enjoy your walk along this wonderful promenade, under the shade of pine trees, until you arrive at the roundabout with the well- known monument of Sveti Petar Cetinjski.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour. In my next blog post, I will describe a walk through the  parks of the city center, along the Morača river.