THE SAD STORY OF VALDANOS

The first time I visited Valdanos was around thirty years ago, when I spent a few days with my children in a cottage at the military holiday resort. I remember it as a nice place in a magnificent bay, which was not too overcrowded.

But many things have changed in the meantime. I have not been in Valdanos for many years, although we have tried to enter the complex several times. The gate was always locked in the off-season, while it was semi-open during the summer months. The stop sign, the warning board and the guard were not really inviting and it was clear that movement in the area was restricted. Why? To protect the “resort” against devastation? What kind of devastation?

A few years ago, we heard that the beach was open to the public during the summer season, but we were not eager to explore it. So, the Valdanos Bay remained a mystery to us – until last week, when we decided to give it another try. Yes, there was a guard, but we could pass the gate without any problems.

Our first impression was astonishment. Side roads were blocked and it was impossible to take a look at the former campsite. We parked the car under the tall cypresses behind the beach, which was covered by dark sea grass, pebbles and stones.

The corona summer was over, but we could still see traces of a freshly painted beach bar. Everything else looked neglected and dilapidated…. The playground was overgrown and the swimming pool was full of stagnant water. We noticed a few rusty fire hydrants and several buildings on the verge of collapse… And thousands of neglected, overgrown olive trees on the hill slopes.

We walked along the concrete path that was crumbled at several places and we saw the former restaurant with its huge terrace overlooking the bay. The spiral staircase to the water was dilapidated and the wall paintings were faded. It was impossible to take a look among the former villas and cottages, as the trails uphill were overgrown or blocked. But it was nice to walk along the sea to a big colorful terrace that was obviously used as bar during the summer months.

We could imagine how attractive a Valdanos holiday must have been in the old times, how families enjoyed their stay in this resort that offered virtually everything – from supermarket and pastry shop to live music and tennis courts.

And of course, we wondered: what happened here? And are there any plans for the future? But let me tell you something more about Valdanos and its history:

The Valdanos Bay is situated about 5 km northwest of Ulcinj. The beach is almost 600m long and represents a barrier between the sea and the olive groves around the bay.

The bay can be reached from the highway Ulcinj – Bar, but it is also connected with the town by a local road that runs through beautiful old olive groves. In the area of Valdanos, there are around 85,000 olive trees, of which more than 18,000 trees are within the borders of the former military resort. The remaining groves are in private property. They are well-preserved and cultivated. Many of them are surrounded by low stone walls, and scattered houses and cottages can be seen everywhere among the trees.

The production of olive oil has become a tradition in this area. Generations of peaceful inhabitants have always tended to their olive trees and their extra virgin olive oil has become famous beyond the borders.

And what happened to the 18,000 olive trees in state property? They were expropriated in 1978, as the Yugoslav Army planned to create a military basis in that area. Around 200 families were dispossessed of their property and land, getting a ridiculously low compensation (around €50 per olive tree and less than €1 per square meter of land).

In 1980, the Yugoslav Army changed its plans and decided to use Valdanos as a resort for its forces. Plans were drawn for a resort with villas, campgrounds, trailers and pre-fab houses, which were built on the hills around the bay with breathtaking views. The resort opened in 1983.

The guests were mainly from Serbia and Montenegro. As family members of military officers, they paid very reasonable prices for their stay. But after the war during the nineties, the resort lost its popularity and when Montenegro separated from Serbia in 2006, Valdanos lost its main client base.

Valdanos threatened to go bankrupt and in 2008, Montenegro called upon international investors for a 30-year lease of the former military resort. Initial interest was high, but Montenegro’s requirements proved tobe irrealistic. Moreover, in the meantime, families who had lost their property by expropriation had taken their cases to the courts.

As the bid was unsuccessful, another try was made in 2011. The unsolved problems with the olive grove owners appeared to be an important obstruction.

What will happen with the abandoned resort? I really don’t know. Probably, the government must make a decision and fulfill the demands of the expropriated families. Only in that case there will be an opportunity to use the beach and its beautiful surroundings for tourism purposes.

One thing is for certain: with Valdanos abandoned, nobody wins. It is so sad to see the decay and devastation of such an amazing place.