A DAY TRIP TO KOLAŠIN

Kolašin Siberian street

The charming town of Kolašin has become one of the most important winter sports resorts of Montenegro, but did you know that it is also a very attractive place during the summer?

Ski center Kolašin 1450Maybe you would think that this mountain resort doesn’t have much to offer when there is no snow, but there are many reasons to visit Kolašin and to stay here a few days without using the famous ski centres Kolašin 1450 and 1600.

Kolašin is situated in northeast Montenegro at the foothill of the Bjelasica and Sinjajevina mountains, on the bank of the Tara river. As it lies at an altitude of around 950 m above sea level, it has also become a popular destination for all those who enjoy fresh air, mountain trails and natural beauty during the summer months. It is a perfect place to escape the heat and the crowds of south and central Montenegro; the temperature is never higher than 25°C!

Even a few weeks ago, the weather was nice and warm during our visit of Kolašin – it was perfect for a day trip. Moreover, as the distance from Podgorica is 71 km only, it took us one and a half hours to reach a completely different ambiance and to forget about the bad air and the corona threat in Podgorica. The air was fresh and clean. Pubs and restaurants with open-air terraces were still open and everything looked quiet and inviting.

Kolašin Veljko VlahovićBut let me tell you something more about the history and highlights of Kolašin.

History

The origin and meaning of the word Kolašin is unknown, but an assumption connects the name with a duke named Kolašin. However, there is another version, which says that.the village of Kolašin was first mentioned in 1566, in the Sultan’s berat (declaration).

Whatever is true, it is a fact that Kolašin was founded by the Ottomans in 1651 as a military outpost and that it has been the scene of many battles for centuries. Finally, the town formally became part of Montenegro in 1878, but during the Second World War it was occupied 23 times by Montenegrin Partisans, Italians and Germans. No wonder that most monuments and landmarks of the town are war memorials!

kolašin fountainKolašin Highlights

The centre of social life in Kolašin has always been the area around the Upper and Lower Square. Actually, the old Turkish town was located around the Upper Square, but there are no oriental buildings left, as the Montenegrins wanted to rebuild a typical European town and thus destroyed all Turkish buildings.

The only old house at the Upper Square is the traditional “Konoba” Restaurant. In front of it is a big statue of Veljko Vlahović, a national hero from World War II.

There are a lot of war memorials in the centre of Kolašin, particularly at the Lower Square, which is surrounded by one-storied houses of a traditional mountain architecture.

Kolašin Culture CentreThe big statue in the middle of the Square, in socialist-realistic style, is dedicated to the fallen Partisan soldiers and was created in 1949 by Vojin Bakić. It is surrounded by a nice park with an attractive fountain. The wooden surfaces, made of old railway sleepers, create a pleasant atmosphere.

Behind the Square is a huge “abstract” building that contains the Culture Centre and Town Hall. Built in 1975 and designed by Marko Mušič, it was meant to commemorate the victims of World War II. Unfortunately, it is dilapidated and neglected, although it is a splendid example of communist Brutalist architecture. It deserves better!

By the way, the official name of the Lower Square is Square of the Fallen Fighters (Trg Boraca).

Bianca Spa & REsort KolašinThe main street with its traditional decorated old houses is quite unusual. The locals call it “Siberian Street” (photo 1). Why Siberian? Because it is very cold and windy here in the winter months. But in summer, it is a charming short street lined by linden trees, which create a kind of shady tunnel. It is really nice to take a break here and enjoy a cup of coffee on one of the terraces.

What makes this street so unusual? Well, it is famous for the number of coffee houses. There were 26 of them in 1891 and Kolašin was known as the town with the largest number of “kafanas”, i.e. coffee houses or bistros, per capita in Yugoslavia. It was even calculated that each citizen had a place in one of them.

Another interesting fact: at one side of the street the “kafanas” served coffee and at the opposite side „rakija“. As these two drinks always go together in Montenegro, the bistros practically worked together and at the end of the day they would share the profit.

Savardak KolašinNowadays, there are several good hotels in Kolašin. Bianca Spa & Resort is one of them. It is a fine example of typical architecture from Tito’s times. You can find this type of hotels in several mountain resorts of former Yugoslavia. Many of them were abandoned, e.g. in Žabljak, but this hotel is perfectly renovated and adapted to modern needs.

And what about the restaurants? Probably the most famous national restaurant is “Savardak”, located on the road to the ski fields, 3 km from the town centre. Its authentic exterior and interior give the impression of a traditional shepherd-s hut and it serves local specialties like kačamak, layered cheese and cicvara. Another nice restaurant is “Vodenica”, a romantic place near a waterfall – the trout is excellent and the prices are low.

National Cuisine

Kolšin VodenicaEating “kačamak” in Kolašin is a must, as this is a traditional meal in the northern part of the country, and especially in Kolašin. It is made of potatoes, flour of mixed cereals among which maize flour is dominating, but its unique taste comes from a combination of cheese and sour cream, known as “kajmak”, which is added at the end of the cooking process. The best thing to serve with it is “kisjelo mlijeko”– thick yogurt.

By the way, there is a popular belief that, when eating “kačamak”, you should leave an empty plate, because otherwise you risk losing your loved one!

The Surroundings of Kolašin

The surroundings of Kolašin are magnificent. We visited Eco Lodge Katun Vranjak, which is located at an altitude of 1800 m above sea level. This settlement looks like a traditional shepherd’s village where time has stopped. Accommodation is provided in wooden huts and all food is organic, produced by their own farm. The view of the surrounding mountains is breath-taking.

Eko Katun VranjakDuring the summer season, it is a real adventure to make a trip with the 1,567 m long six-seater cable car, which goes from Ski centre Kolašin 1600 towards the top of Mount Troglav an extends to an altitude of more than 2,000 m. When leaving the cable car you can easily reach Katun Vranjak,

From Kolašin, you can also visit Lake Biograd in Biogradska Gora National Park and make a walk around it. Or you can go  hiking, mountain biking, rafting, boat riding or just walking, enjoying the natural beauties.

Kolašin offers a nice weekend break for tourists and citizens of the capital city. And in summer, it offers a quick getaway from the heat!

Kolašin war monument

 

 

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