CHRISTMAS IN TAORMINA, SICILY

Keeping in mind that ‘our’ Christmas passes without any particular celebrations in Montenegro, we thought it a good idea to spend our winter holidays in Sicily, in the magnificent town of Taormina.

There are not many regions that still retain unchanged Christmas traditions. We enjoyed our winter holidays in Puglia last year, with Christmas stall exhibitions and wonderful street decorations, but Sicily is also one of those places where time seems to stand still in this period. Staying in Taormina, we discovered a custom that those who come in July and August will never know: the Christmas bonfires, also called ‘Zuccu’.

It is not exactly known where the tradition comes from, but it is almost certain that it dates back to old pagan ceremonies linked to the harvest gods and the winter solstice. With support of such ancient rites people could easier overcome the cold season.

The bonfires in the area around the snow-covered volcano Etna are lit up in the night of December 24th. The most common name to indicate them is ‘Zuccu’, which perhaps derives from the Arabic word ‘suk’, a word that can be translated as ‘trunk’ or ‘market’, since they usually burnt this wood at the center of the city market.

The introduction of Catholic rites has transformed the sense and the ceremony of Christmas Zuccu. In Taormina we found a huge stack of wood logs and trunks in the main square, Piazza del Duomo, in front of the Cathedral of San Nicola. Many people gathered around it at Christmas Eve before going to the midnight mass. Before it was burnt, it was greeted by the mayor and blessed by the priest. The wood was ignited, and although the smoke was suffocating, people watched it burning with great excitement.

What does the modern bonfire represent? It is the fire that warms Baby Jesus, or the light that guided the shepherds to the crib. It is interesting to know that the Orthodox (oak) bonfire, called “badnjak”, also symbolizes the fire that the three shepherds brought to warm the stable where Jesus was born! Moreover, in both religions the fire is a symbol of love and harmony in the family.

But let me give you some details about Taormina:

Perched on a rocky terrace about 250 meters above the sea, it has a wonderful setting, offering stunning views of the coast and of Mount Etna, Europe’s largest and most active volcano. Yes, Taormina is very crowded during the summer, but in the winter period there are just enough tourists to make it nice and cozy. And the sun is warm enough to enjoy a cup of coffee with ‘cannoli’ (special Sicilian sweets) at one of the open-air terraces.

What is there to see in Taormina? First of all, it is a charming town with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. We enjoyed strolling through the vibrant main street, Corso Umberto, with its romantic buildings and nice Christmas decorations, but also with many boutiques, souvenir shops, pubs and restaurants. In a small ‘tavern’ we ordered ‘Sardines Beccafico’, a Sicilian specialty that is made of sardines stuffed with raisins, pine nuts and breadcrumbs.

We enjoyed sunset at Piazza IX Aprile, one of the best viewpoints in Taormina, with a huge panoramic terrace overlooking the sea and Mount Etna in the distance. But we also visited the most famous monument of the town, the Greek theatre that dates back to the 3^rd century BC and is remarkably well-preserved (photo 1). In those times, it could accommodate 5000 people and it had a diameter of 109 meter!

Taormina has several beautiful Baroque churches and Arabic palaces, a peaceful secluded garden (Villa Comunale) and a cable car that leads you in 5 minutes to the beaches and to Isola Bella, a small island and nature reserve in front of the coast. But we particularly liked Piazza del Duomo with its simple Cathedral of San Nicola, founded in the 13^th century and combining medieval and Baroque features, and its wonderful Baroque fountain from 1635.

It was a great experience to spend Christmas in Taormina. I don’t know if we would recommend the place in the crowded summer season, but off-season it is a fantastic town, where you can feel the romantic and magical atmosphere spread all around. Strolling around the narrow streets, visiting the Greek Theatre, enjoying the great food and watching the sunset from one of the beautiful terraces overlooking the sea…. it is no wonder that Taormina is also called ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’!