5 HIGHLIGHTS OF EASTERN SICILY IN DECEMBER

We found it a special experience to explore Eastern Sicily during the winter period. In particular December appeared to be a great time, as Christmas was celebrated in a traditional way all around the island, with Christmas stall exhibitions, beautiful street decorations and bonfires (‘Zuccu’).

While it was cooler and even snowy inland, we had temperatures of 15-16°C on the coast. We enjoyed the winter sun sitting at open-air terraces overlooking the sea, but the beauty of traveling in December was, first of all, escaping the crowds and the summer heat, and of course, enjoying the various Christmas events…

Except for the coastal cities of Taormina and Catania, there are 5 highlights of South-Eastern Sicily that deserve to be emphasized: the exceptional mosaics of Villa Romana del Casale, Ancient Syracuse, the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto (eight of them listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites), the ceramic city of Caltagirone and last but not least: the charming seaside village of Marzamemi.

I don’t want to give a detailed description of historical and cultural monuments or archeological sites we have visited in Eastern Sicily – it is, first of all, my purpose to draw attention to the places that have particularly touched me.

1. Villa Romana del Casale

It was a unique experience to visit this Villa, situated in the countryside near the small town of Piazza Armerina. It shows more than 350 sq.m. of mosaic floors and probably belonged to an important Roman governor from the 4th century, who ordered these mosaics from African masters.

The mosaics are real works of art. Some of them are dedicated to mythology; other sections show the Roman life of everyday and scenes from nature. I was really surprised to see the mosaic called ‘Girls in Bikini’. Bikini? In those days? In fact, the girls are pictured in their underwear, which was also commonly used to do athletic exercises…  The hunting scenes, which show how different wild animals are captured and put into cages prior to being loaded onto ships destined for Rome, were particularly impressive. It took me some time to study and admire all elaborate details!

2. Caltagirone

This colorful town is well-known for its ceramics. The tradition of ceramic production dates to prehistorical times and the name of the town is believed to derive from the Arabic word qal’al-al-ghiran, meaning ‘Castle of Vases’.

We saw brightly-painted ceramics in shop windows, on bridges and balconies, but the most famous landmark appeared to be the magnificent stairs of Santa Maria del Monte, built in 1606. These stairs, covered with colorful ceramic tiles, connect the old part of the town with the newer one. After climbing 142 steps, at the top, we found the Mother Church of Santa Maria del Monte, from where we had a magnificent view of the surroundings.

Strolling around the narrow streets, we found many workshops producing and selling maiolica-objects, among which the so-called ‘Heads of Caltagirone’ (photo 1), which represent the three empires that successively ruled over Sicily: the Byzantines, the Arabs and the Normans.

But one of the most interesting experiences in Caltagirone was a huge exhibition of 16 Christmas stalls, distributed all over the old town. Together with a ticket, we also got a map with indication of all buildings where we could find these ‘presepi’: they were made of ceramics, glass, cotton, terracotta, bread dough, pasta, ice, and even of Lego cubes!

3. The Baroque Towns of Val di Noto

We could not wait visiting the Baroque towns in the area of Val di Noto, as eight of them are listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. They were all rebuilt after the big earthquake of 1693 that partly or entirely destroyed them, and they are famous for their architecture and art in late Baroque style. We visited seven of them, and although Noto is generally considered to be the most beautiful example, I preferred the city of  Ragusa.

Ragusa Ibla, the old part of the town, is full of medieval remains and Baroque buildings, of which the Cathedral of Ibla is the most beautiful one. But I was particularly impressed by the exuberant Baroque balconies, in particular at the Cosentini Palace.

There was no other town we visited that showed so clearly this form of „Sicilian“ Baroque  balconies characterized by curved balustrades and console brackets with grinny human-like masks, musicians, monsters, lion heads, plant-like elements and putti (figures depicted as chubby, naked male children). But why were the wrought iron balustrades rounded? Just imagine: because they had to accommodate the 18th centuries’ ample skirts of the ladies!

4. Syracuse

The historical core of UNESCO-listed Syracuse is Ortygia Island, connected to the mainland with three bridges. Walking through the pedestrian part of the town felt like a walk through history.

The heart of Ortygia is the square surrounding the Cathedral with its beautiful Baroque front facade. Apart from ancient Greek ruins (2700 years ago, the town used to be a flourishing center of Greek culture) and spectacular Baroque piazzas, I could not help admiring the photogenic Fountain of Diana and the Maniace Castle, built by Federico II in the 13th century.

But why did I fall in love with Ortygia? Because of the warm and romantic atmosphere. We strolled through the narrow streets and made a walk along the picturesque promenade. Sitting at a cozy square above the rocks, we watched a peaceful red sunset above the blue Ionian Sea, while seagulls were flying around our heads. It was a wonderful place I will not easily forget!

5. Marzamemi

It was just by chance that we visited Marzamemi, one of the prettiest seaside villages of Sicily. In the 10th century, the Arabs gave this village its poetic name Mara’-al-hamen (which means Turtle Dove Bay) and they also built the original tonnara (tuna processing plant). The tonnara is no longer in function, but its ruins can still be seen.

Even in winter Marzamemi appeared to be an attractive place with an exotic flair. I particularly enjoyed the picturesque fishing harbor with its colorful boats and the old fishermen’s houses with their blue doors, potted red geraniums and huge cactuses. A paradise for photographers!

And finally, I can only say that Eastern Sicily is a perfect destination to visit at any time of the year, but in particular during the Christmas holidays!