A FAIRY-TALE DINNER AT MRIZI I ZANAVE

In the last few years I have heard many fabulous stories about ‘Mrizi i Zanave’, a popular slow food restaurant in Albania. When our Albanian friends invited us to join them last week, it goes without saying that we were very happy to get the opportunity to have dinner at this famous farmhouse.

I must admit: I have never experienced something like this. It was amazing to visit such a unique place and to eat absolutely fresh, authentic and organic food. No wonder that Mrizi i Zanave has become one of the best restaurants in Albania in a short time.

Many people, also in Montenegro, are enthusiastic about agrotourism, eco-friendly restaurants, biologic food, traditional meals … but do they really know what they are talking about? Anyway, during a visit of Mrizi i Zanave they would discover what this really means: when all the meals are prepared using seasonal vegetables and fruits only, when people grow, raise, harvest and cook at the same place…

About Mrizi i Zanave

‘Mrizi i Zanave’ (in translation: ‘Shadow of the Fairies’) is set in the middle of a big property in the village of Fishtë, District of Lezhë, north-west of Tirana. This was the birthplace of the Albanian poet Gjergj Fishta, the author of ‘The Highland Lute’.

The region is not really touristy, but people from all over the world come to visit this place.

How is that possible? Well, they want to visit ‘Mrizi i Zanave Agrotourism’ that was opened in 2010 by Altin and Anton Prenga, the pioneers of Albania’s slow food movement.

Let me tell you what is the secret behind this success story. The Prenga brothers left Albania in the early 1990s. After having worked for many years in Italian restaurants, they returned to Albania, as they loved their land and they were proud of their traditions.

They came back to their family house in Fishtë and organized a farm on almost 3 hectares with cows, ducks, goats, chickens, geese, … They built greenhouses, they created vineyards, olive groves, gardens, etc. With foreign grants, they started to produce cheese, wine, sausages and smoked ham, marmalades and many other products. All with the aim to run a real slow food restaurant based upon the slogan ‘100% Made in Albania’.

Seasonal products are grown in respect of the environment. The establishment has 72 employees, but more than 200 families and small farmers in the region supply the restaurant with milk, fresh meat, vegetables and wild fruit: blackberry, wild pomegranate, mushrooms, blueberry, herbs, etc.

The Prenga brothers have made their dream come true. Apart from the restaurant, they manage a guesthouse with a very characteristic design and architecture. Organic products from the farm are sold in a big shop, where you can also buy pottery, tablecloths and other souvenirs.

Our Visit

From Podgorica, it took us less than two hours to reach Fishtë. When we left the main road Shkodra – Tirana, turning left at the signpost, we followed a narrow asphalt road through the vast plain. After a while, we saw a property with chickens, ducks, turkeys, and even a few ostriches. And soon we reached the world of fairy land….

A herd of geese welcomed us by honking loudly. Yes, it was obvious, this was a real farm! After having parked our car in the shadow of creepers and hanging pumpkins, we started to explore the property. Everything was arranged with much love for details and unbelievable creativity.

Cows were eating hay in the stable, strings of red peppers and onions were hanging at a beam. Three old bunkers from Enver Hoxha’s times were preserved and each of them was decorated in an original way. A children’s train, made of old metal bins pulled by a tractor, was waiting for a tour around the property. Flowers, pumpkins and other types of decoration could be seen everywhere in the lovely park.

Those who would like to walk after lunch or dinner could take a footpath through the forest, passing over romantic wooden bridges. And below the restaurant was a nice shop with souvenirs, cheese, wine and local food. We bought some fig bread and dried apples, delicious!

The sun was gradually going down, but some guests were still enjoying their late lunch at long wooden tables under the trees. Before going to the restaurant, we went to see the guesthouse with its very special architecture and design. One corner of the old stone house was left open and covered with glass. We could look into the rooms and see the traditional interior. What a nice idea!

And then it was time to go to the restaurant for our dinner….

The Dinner

One of the very typical characteristics of Mrizi i Zanave is that there is no menu. Everybody gets the same meal, as the menu changes according to the seasons. But one thing is sure, the food is fresh, authentic and organic. And delicious!

We were served with a glass of pomegranate juice and then the appetizers started to arrive: one surprise after the other… What do you think about a little green heart made of frozen olive oil? Or a quail egg? A small piece of byrek with home-made cheese? Delicious porcini mushrooms?  Roasted peppers? I particularly liked the ’jufka’ (home-made pasta) with porcini, garnished with fresh grated mushroom.

We ordered local wine (Kallmet) and enjoyed the main course: pork, goat and quail. But the highlight of the dinner were the desserts coming straight out of the kitchen. Just imagine a blackberry ice lolly served on a bramble stalk put into a stone. Or rose ice cream encased in a large, pink ball of sugar. Or maybe ice cream with coffee beans as a garnish? Or cheesecake with pomegranate?

After this description, you have probably become curious. Don’t hesitate, go ahead and try it out. But don’t forget to reserve in time, as the restaurant is always fully booked.

The farm

After dinner, the restaurant manager took us for a tour around the property, where he explained how the owners started the business and how everything we tasted was made by the local people.

A former prison nearby was bought by the owners and with support of the European Union (among others GIZ) it was transformed into a winery with a capacity of 70,000 liters, a special department for cheese making, a meat smoking plant, facilities for grain and rice milling, storage rooms, etc. The former prison property is now covered with vineyards (the autochtonous Kallmet wine) and other cultures.

Conclusion

The achievement of the Prenga brothers should be an example for all neighboring countries. Within 10 years, Mrizi i Zanave has become a world-famous slow food restaurant with affordable prices.

If you want to experience something really special, this is the place to go!  But once more: don’t forget to reserve in advance, both the restaurant and the guesthouse are always fully booked.

And remember the slogan of Mrizi i Zanave: Think globally – Eat locally!