Have you ever wondered what it would be like to make a cab ride on the mountain railway that runs between Podgorica and Kolašin, one of the most dramatic rail routes of Europe? Well, I think that not many people have got this opportunity, as cab rides are done at special request only.
We were lucky to be invited by Michael Bader (www.utjeha.me), who had already told us a lot about the train excursions he organizes for adventurous tourists. He is convinced (and so are we) that a train trip from Bar to Belgrade – and in particular the section from Bar/Podgorica to Kolašin – is one of Europe’s best-kept rail secrets. And making a ride in the driver’s cabin along this scenic railway track would certainly be an awesome adventure for each railway enthusiast!
Description of the railway Bar-Belgrade
Tito’s mountain railway from Bar to Belgrade is one of the most spectacular railroads in Europe. It is a marvel of engineering, with 254 tunnels and 435 bridges at a total length of 476 km (of which 175 km through Montenegro). Construction started in the 1950s, but only in 1976 the railway was officially opened by Yugoslav President Tito himself. In those times, his private Blue Train rumbled regularly along the route.
In the meantime, Yugoslavia has fallen apart, but the railway line connecting Montenegro to Serbia endures. However, when the line was opened, the travel time between Belgrade and Bar was 7.5 hours – now it takes approximately 11-12 hours, due to speed restrictions caused by reconstruction works.
The most attractive section of the railway is between Podgorica and Kolašin (65 km). Traveling along this route, you can enjoy pristine views of untouched nature: deep canyons, dense forests and rough mountains. But the spectacular Mala Rijeka Viaduct – 198m high and 498m long – is an absolute highlight of the trip. It was completed in 1973 and until 2001 it was the tallest bridge in the world.
The cab ride
We started the trip in Podgorica. Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro, but its railway station – although clean and cozy – looks like a village station from the seventies. It is clear, developing railway transportation is not on Montenegro’s priority list.
It was a warm day. Local travelers, but also some foreign tourists and backpackers, were waiting on the platform for the Bar-Belgrade train with departure at 10.00 AM, which should arrive from Bar.
And there it was, the big red train of the Montenegrin Railway Company. Passengers entered and a railway worker ‘tapped’, i.e. struck the wheels with a hammer to ensure a ‘ring’ was heard, which would confirm that there are no cracks. An old, but efficient way of working!
Micha introduced us to the main engine driver, Goran, and we climbed into the cabin of locomotive 431-035. The technical equipment looked as if it was installed 50 years ago – and indeed, it was: the text of a metal plate on the locomotive read: ‘Electroputere – Craiova Romania – 1974’. We had the feeling as if we were going on a journey back in time!
We slowly left the station and passed through the suburbs of Podgorica, hooting at each crossing. Driving along the Morača river, Goran explained us the function of all the handles, meters, wheels, warning lamps and buttons in front of him. With a working experience of 32 years (and a salary of € 850) he was fully aware of his responsibility, as this track is one of the most demanding ones in Europe. But Goran’s love for his job and country was particularly expressed through his stories about the spectacular natural beauties to be seen on this journey.
First of all, we saw the ‘Moračica’ bridge – 960m long and 180m tall – on the new highway Bar–Boljari, designed and constructed by a Chinese company. The bridge sections had been joined just a few days ago and we could clearly see the huge pillars against a backdrop of dramatic karst mountains.
Express train 430 from Bar to Belgrade slowly continued its ride, climbing from 40m (Podgorica) to 1032m (Kolašin) with a maximum ascend of 25‰, through tunnels, over bridges and close along steep mountains.
After each tunnel, we had another breathtaking view of the Morača Canyon. Deep down we could see the highway winding through the picturesque landscape, and soon we reached the highest railway bridge in Europe: Mala Rijeka Viaduct. I must admit, it was a bit nerve-wracking crossing this bridge and I did not have the courage to look down to the river below us…
But soon we entered another tunnel … another breathtaking view … another bridge … and another tunnel… The mountains became higher and higher, and the abysses deeper and deeper. Untouched nature, everywhere around… The narrow electric track was worming its way up in silence. The speed was sometimes 40 km/h, sometimes 50, but most of the time the train was moving even slower.
At some tiny stations (or should I say stopping points?), railway men were at work and after Kos station, the train had to slow down to 20 km/h due to reconstruction and maintenance works along the track. They were working ‘in the middle of nowhere’, in tunnels and on bridges, high above the abyss. A dangerous job!
Finally, after one hour and a half, we arrived at Kolašin railway station, which looked as if time had come to a standstill.
Micha was already waiting for us to take us back to Podgorica. But not before making a detour to the highlight of the train ride: Mala Rijeka Viaduct. Of course, not without special permission. Following a narrow dirt road, we soon arrived at the bridge that is secured by a guard and his dog.
Is the guard really necessary? Yes, as there are other precaution measures to be taken! Visitors of the bridge can see a number of big metal barrels filled with water at regular distances along the bridge. Could you ever imagine what would be the reason to put them there? Well, when the train – coming from the north – descends from the mountains during the hot summer months, it might happen that the braking system produces sparks or even fire. The water is necessary to extinguish beginning fires. We could even see that something similar has happened in the past, as several sleepers are charred ….
How impressive it was to view this bridge from close proximity and to walk on it! But I must admit that the altitude made me dizzy and I hurried to get back….
Back in Podgorica, we looked back on an amazing day we will always keep in memory. And the Certificate we received, with our photo, will make sure that we will never forget this extraordinary experience.
Conclusion
This train ride, and particularly the ride in the engine driver’s cabin, is something I would recommend to all railway enthusiasts, but also to nature lovers and everybody who is looking for a special, adventurous experience in Montenegro!
For detailed information (in German): http://bahn.utjeha.me/
By the way, special railway trips for tourists, and in particular ‘footplate rides’ (cab rides on a historic steam or diesel engine) and other types of cab rides, are getting more and more popular in Europe. In order to diversify the tourist offer, it would be a good idea to promote this type of tourism on ‘Tito’s mountain railway’ at the national level.
Thank you for sharing this adventure! How often do they do this, and what is the cost? Julie