HRIDSKO JEZERO, THE LAKE OF HAPPINESS

Hridsko jezero

Last weekend we finally succeeded in visiting Hridsko Jezero (Hrid Lake), situated at an altitude of 1970m above sea level. For us, ‘active seniors’, it was too strenuous for a hiking tour, but we had read on internet that the Lake is now also accessible for passenger cars, and that was – of course – good news for us.

Hridsko jezeroDescription

First of all, Hridsko jezero is a glacial lake. It is not big – 300m long, 160m wide and around 5m deep -, but what makes it special is the fact that it is one of the highest – if not the highest – lakes of Montenegro. It is set in a spectacular landscape with high pine and spruce trees and interesting rock formations. No need to say that it is surrounded by craggy mountain peaks. A ‘craggy rock’ is called ‘hrid’ in Montenegrin, and the Lake is hidden under the steep cliffs of Hridski Krš and Mount Bogićevića.

The Lake is situated at a distance of around 20km from Plav, in the northwestern part of Prokletije National Park, near the border with Albania. And what is most important: nature is still untouched in this part of the ‘Accursed Mountains’ (‘proklet’ means accursed). It’s true, you can encounter some nature-loving hikers, but there are no human settlements in the wide surroundings. Pure nature and wild beauty!

Bajrovica katunThe Legend

Why is Hridsko Jezero also called ‘the Lake of Happiness’? A legend says that Hrid Lake was created by the Gods. It was a hidden bathing place for fairies, where they could bathe, unseen by humans. In Albanian-speaking areas, it is still known as the Fairy Lake (Liqeni i Zanave).

If you believe the stories of the locals, bathing in the icy lake would give you health and happiness in your marriage. Throw a coin or a piece of jewelry – a ring, bracelet, chain – into the lake and have a wish. Maybe it will soon come true!

How to get there

Until this summer, Hrid Lake could be reached by hikers only. For 4×4 vehicles coming from Plav, there was another possibility: a narrow dirt road (once it must have been a paved road…) full of potholes until Hridska krivina (Hrid Curve) and another 10km on an extremely bad forest road.

Hridsko jezero reconstructed roadBut via internet we had learned that the reconstructed road from Hridska krivina leading to Hridsko Jezero was officially opened on July 13, 2019. .

I must admit, we thought that ‘reconstruction’ means that the road would be paved, but no – following the macadam road, we could only establish that the 10km long last section to Veliki Hrid (2062m) was certainly better and without potholes, that’s true, but it was still a great challenge for our small Peugeot….

We passed Bajrovića Katun, where hikers, coming from different directions, start their last climb through the pine forests to Hridsko Jezero (around 1.5 hours according to the signpost).

Altogether, it took us 1.5 hours to get to Veliki Hrid (2062m), from where we could easily walk to the Lake.

Hridsko jezero panoramaA walk to Hridsko Jezero

We found ourselves a few hundred meters above the Lake. From above, it seemed to be quite close; the signpost told us that the distance was 400m or a ten minutes walk. We could see the lake mysteriously shimmering through the dense woods.

A steep path descended through the forest, passing huge rocks, covered with yellowish-green moss. We climbed a kind of stone wall and suddenly we were struck not only by the view of the calm and silent lake but also by the tall pine and spruce trees mirrored in the water.

Hridsko jezero trailFor a long time I watched the still surface of the blue-green water and the reflection of the trees. I felt humble to the beauty of this pure and wild nature.

Conclusion

Whenever I travel through the high mountains of Montenegro, I know that I belong to this country, to this nature. The untouched nature of Prokletije National Park and Hridsko Jezero makes me feel a very small part of Mother Earth. And that makes me feel free, happy and full of energy!

Tip

It is also possible to make a walk around Hridsko Jezero (0.9km). For skilled hikers, this walk takes around 30 minutes – be aware of the fact that at some places you have to jump from rock to rock…

Hridsko jezero

 

 

5 Replies to “HRIDSKO JEZERO, THE LAKE OF HAPPINESS”

  1. Great piece. Thanks for sharing!

    A couple notes to add:

    1. The fire roads are redone from time to time. While it is passable this season, it will be a recurring question after each rain as the road and drainage make it a frequent wash out scenario with changing road conditions. Usually it is passable to Bajrovica Katun via most vehicles with reasonable clearance (a little higher than your Peugeot) as the park works to keep things passable to this point.

    2. This is a great family adventure and a good way to explore katun life. We have been working with the great people at Bajrovica Katun for several years now and highly recommend a night or two there to experience a more traditional Montenegro. Samel’s Cottage in Bajrovica Katun is bookable at: https://meanderbug.com/listings/samels-cottage-prokletije-national-park-montenegro/. We also advise clients on the latest fire road conditions or can help people get there with assistance if hiking in is not an option.

    1. Marianne van Twillert says: Reply

      Thank you for the information!

  2. Yoni Vermeire says: Reply

    Hello Marianne!
    Thank you for this lovely description and tips for Hridsko Jezero!
    I am currently planning a trip to Montenegro for this summer 🙂
    Would it be possible to give a little bit more details on how to get there by car like you did?
    I tried to ‘plan’ it on Google Maps but it is so unclear that I don’t know how we could get there by car (so that you just have to walk a little bit instead of hours).
    Would it be possible to maybe leave a reply?
    Thank you very much!

    Kind regards,

  3. Yoni Vermeire says: Reply

    Hello Marianne!
    Thank you for this detailed description of Hridsko Jezero and tips!
    I am currently planning a roadtrip in Montenegro for the end of august.
    I would like to see this like very badly, but hiking the whole way up is no possibility for me.
    Would it be possible to give a little bit more information about how to get as close as possible to the lake?
    I tried to plan it with Google Maps, but it was very unclear. How did you do it?
    Would it be possible to give a little bit information on this matter? 🙂
    Thank you very much!

    Kind regards from Belgium!

    1. Marianne van Twillert says: Reply

      Dear Yoni, sorry, I cannot help you right now, I am on vacation. Just follow the instructions from my blogpost how to get there and you will reach a place close to the lake. Enjoy your trip!

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